Paradise Paused

The Feast: Sustainability Issues Surrounding the Galapagos

2010-02-07T21:04:00.000-08:00

Change is not something unfamiliar to the Galapagos Islands. Centuries of volcanic eruptions, shifting land barriers and ecological transformations preceded their fame as the paradisical, remote archipelago that inspired Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution. The islands basked in the equatorial sun and patiently bore the many generations of its diverse flora and fauna, untainted by man. But with its discovery came fifteen years of rapid attention from researchers to tourists to the many disenfranchised citizens of Ecuador. Now, the question of long-term sustainability hangs over the Galapagos’ skies, dense with the human fingerprint.
Since the first man laid foot on the Galapagos Islands, the archipelago has housed the most reckless of its guests’ endeavors, from the site of a crazed dentist and his murderous lover’s occult to an inescapable prison, reminiscent of Alcatraz, for the worst of Ecuador’s criminals. But in the short span of the last decade, the Galapagos faced the beginning of unfamiliar challenges, from the invasive species more than 200,000 visitors per year introduce to the ecosystem to the illegal fishing and tortoise-egg hunting committed by the islands’ desperately indignant citizens. According to a 2007 socio-economic report conducted by the Galapagos Conservancy, multinational and bilateral support have allowed for the growth of more local, small enterprises and a more substantial population in search of work. Consequently, the growth of the local markets lures even more tourists into what is now a 418 million dollar enterprise. Reduced government involvement along with the constant commercialization of the islands have committed the Galapagos to a vicious cycle of supply and demand. Unfortunately, most of the Galapagos residents do not live the pristine life suggested by the beauty of the location. Often, they find themselves with the scraps of the feast corporately-owned enterprises enjoy, seeing a mere 63 million dollars from the tourism market.

The pressure created by the socio-economic conditions reels the five sects that govern the Galapagos into a compromising position. Currently, five industries coexist on Isabela Island, the largest Island in the Galapagos by far. As a resident of the island, you’re either a fisherman, a nature and history guide, an employee of the tourism enterprises, an employee for the national park, or a researcher working for the donation-based conservancies. Together, directors representing professionals in each of these markets meet to form the Institutional Authority of Management. While each sector appears to represent their interests on an even keel, conflicts of interests are not uncommon on Isabela. Unlike the harmonious symbiosis enjoyed by the diverse species on the Islands, Isabela’s people face the onerous burdens of an economy strangled in short-term sustainability. Francisco Ortuno, Director of Isabela’s fishing sector stresses, “the five must act as one,” when highlighting the mitigations between the sectors. “Sometimes, it is like four against one, for example, everyone against the fishermen. But, the final decision must be a unanimous vote, so even if one sector disagrees, the dispute goes to the institute,” he said.

On top of the slim career selection, Ortuno also notes, “professions are not something you can just jump into.” Most of the residents on Isabela Island have been working in their respective fields since they were pre-teens, and most of the time, their parents serve as the entry into their field. Due to the current financial conditions, many fishermen must take out loans to live on until the next fishing season. Imagine the oceans’ womanly inconsistent and the luck of next season’s catch determining your next pay check.

Simultaneously, the flora and fauna, particularly the diverse marine life, suffers silently as their very livelihood lines the tables of this archipelago feast. According to the Galapagos Conservancy report, the Galapagos Islands currently maintain “95% of its original biodiversity, representing the global ‘gold standard’ for biological and ecosystem integrity.” Due to the invasive species, pollution caused by the local and tourist population, and the overharvesting of natural resources used to sustain the islands’ booming economy, the nature of the islands, their very worth, deteriorates day by day. Despite the laid-back air suggested by social, lounging sea lions and 200 year old tortoises sun-bathing in the national parks, the biodiversity of this paradise “depend[s] on the decisions taken regarding sustainable development in the short term.”

So, in light of the vicious cycle of unsustainability, fueled by the growing pressures for more tourist concessions, an increasing local population demanding a better living conditions, and the instability of the government in Quito, can the many residents and visitors of the Galapagos Islands make the shift to long-term sustainability. One thing is clear—the answer will determine the fate of the unique, ancient animals and plants of the islands. They are the living fossils that attract the minds of the islands’ many admirers. They are the feast. Let’s hope we don’t eat too much too fast.

2010-01-29T14:24:00.001-08:00

Pink Persuasion

2010-01-28T15:50:00.000-08:00

Photo courtesy of Dru Charles

Marine Life of Isabela

2010-01-28T15:33:00.001-08:00

Video courtesy of Andrea Reategui, Paola Reatedgui, and Dru Charles.

Natural Life of Isabela

2010-01-28T15:24:00.003-08:00

Video courtesy of Andrea Reategui, Paola Reategui, and Dru Charles.

March of the Sea Lion!

2009-06-05T09:04:00.000-07:00

Going...

Gone!

Catch Up

2009-06-04T08:01:00.000-07:00

Haven't been blogging lately--way too busy with articles and the island itself. Isabela is my corner of paradise. I'm learning far more about the Galapagos environment, life and myself than I thought I would. This place refreshes you--a home away from home. I've never felt more cozy while traveling.In this small, approachable town, everyone knows one another. They ride bikes to get around, give friendly greetings, buy their bread from the same shop--the only one in town. They constantly interact throughout the day. The idea of carrying a cell phone in my pocket quickly became obsolete.

The daily activities stretch us individually and also help us bond as a whole. So far, we have hiked and snorkeled in Los Tintoreras, where we saw all the well known Galapagos animals in one brisk morning. Marine Iguanas lounged on the lava rocks, while lava lizards sun bathed on their heads. Sandy Lightfoot crabs scuttled across the rocks near the shore. Overhead,we saw blue-footed boobies perched on lava. In a semi-secluded bay, sea lions played as a white tipped shark slithered through a tiny channel between the lava formations. You might wonder how these animals coexist peacefully. The answer is that the Galapagos Islands' diverse and plentiful marine life, particularly fish, the larger mammals and other predators satisfy their diets on fish alone. These animals coexist so peacefully, since none of them are each others' prey. Having the chance to see such diverse fauna so close together simultaneously creates a paradisaical ambiance on the Islands.

The Wall of tears was a bit of a downer. We saw the four year work in progress that never met it's goal--a huge lava rock wall built to imprison the very people who were laboring away at it--the worst of Ecuador's criminals. It's not the most spectacular sight, especially after hearing the story. But there is a bit of a happy ending. After two unsuccessful escapes, after which the prisoners would violently pillage the island, the prison project finally got closed down, and the more reformed prisoners adapted to legitimate lifestyles on the island, starting from scratch. Supposedly one of them is still living on one of the islands.

On a free day I went scuba diving, and thoroughly enjoyed swimming in a vortex of ten-foot hammerhead sharks, sea lions, sea turtles and an array fish, courtesy of Maximo from Isabela Dive Center. Once again, it is the sole diving center on the island. This was my first dive that required a full wet suit, and I must admit I became so claustrophobic. I needed to wrap my feet in plastic bags just to squeeze them through the legs of the wetsuit! I almost just said "forget it." I'm glad I didn't though.

Then, there was the all day volcano hike on Sierra Negra, the world's largest active caldera, which is a sunken volcano. It felt so good to stretch my legs and my lungs, and I had a great conversation with our tour guide, Daniella, about whether or not people and their effect on the world should be considered just as natural as nature without our influence. She had a compelling point--that humans are organisms with evolutions in behaviors and lifestyles like anything else that was originally here on earth. This idea put me at ease for a few moments, because I could see myself as a living entity, a part of a whole, and that took some stress off my mind.

Do human's have a natural right to evolve and effect the planet, being at the top of the food chain? What responsibilities does that give us in our attitudes toward the environment?

Awareness is a great start. To be cognizant of our environment is to eventually understand it better than we have been. I paid more attention to taking a closer look at the animals and plants that I encountered throughout my days. It's been an amazing trip so far.

Quick stay in Guayaquil, Arrival in Santa Cruz

2009-05-29T10:37:00.000-07:00

Just getting to Isabela Island, Galapagos, proved to be an adventure itself. After arriving in Guayaquil, Ecuador, we boarded at the Hotel Iguanazu, mainly to sleep, unfortunately. Upon awaking, we savored what few hours we had in the villa-styled hostile to enjoy breakfast and lounge in the hammocks.

From Guayaquil, we boarded yet another plane to Baltra, Santa Cruz, where we underwent a series of additional protocol in customs. The process involved rubbing our feet on a platform of astro-turf that was partially submerged in a cleaning solution as soon as we stepped off the plane. The reason was to kill any ants or other insects that might have hitched a ride with us. Then, boarder control nearly gave us the third-degree while customs sprayed our hands with more solutions (in light of the swine flu), checked our carry-ons, and asked us if we were bringing fruits, flowers, or foreign food that might decide to settle on the islands if they got the chance. All this was well worth it, though. With thousands of tourists entering the islands, these procedures protect the native flora and fauna from more invasive species. The Islands have their share already.

From there, we had a ten minute bus ride to a ferry, which took us to another bus that took us for an hour to the coast of Santa Cruz. After a delicious lunch of bean soup, rice and carne frita, a unique and colorful medley of beats, onions and a few other unknown veggies, we headed off for the Darwin Research Center.

Along the way, I stopped the group to take a look into a local cemetery. I have always found burial and memorial customs to be a pinnacle insight into a culture. The solemn, formal stretches of grass or stone mausoleums we see in the States might as well be a rest stop compared to the ornate, intimate decor that comprise many foreign cemeteries. The cemetery in Santa Cruz resembled those that I had driven past in Mexico or the Caribbean. The mausoleums and gravestones are whiter than any of the houses or store buildings. Crosses tower over them while rings of flowers garnish their edges. An assemblage of other sentimentals, like dolls, miniature Virgin Marys, rosaries, and tiny bibles suggest these graves have not been without frequent vigilance from family.
In modern Western culture, attention to the dead may be regarded as inordinately morbid, but the cemeteries of Santa Cruz suggest that reverence for the dead can serve as a moment of rest throughout one's daily walk, or metaphorically throughout one's life.